Just a few years ago, even Marks and Spencer’s own CEO admitted their clothing was associated with a certain ‘frumpiness’.  

So if you’ve not set foot in a store recently, it might surprise you that the British retail giant has officially been declared ‘cool’ by younger customers who are singing the praises of its ‘many gems’ on social media, while others are stealing M&S clothes from their mothers’ wardrobes.  

It’s quite a turnaround for the high street stalwart that once attracted a more traditional shopper who favoured practicality and wardrobe staples over the latest fashions.  

Now, while the brand hasn’t alienated its core base, there is the addition of unmistakably on-trend items lining the racks to tempt both younger buyers and millennial women who are very much invested in looking good – as well as celebrity collaborations with the likes of Sienna Miller and former Made in Chelsea star Binky Felstead.

So, just how did M&S become cool? The answer lies largely with Maddy Evans, the former fashion director of Topshop, who was hired in 2019 as head of buying and promoted to director of womenswear in 2022.

Her presence has helped M&S fill the crucial gap left by what was one of the most high street’s most popular brands by offering must-have pieces such as a faux croc leather trench coat that is rapidly selling out and being re-stocked.  

It’s also adopted a faster fashion approach, meaning new items can move from the drawing board to the shelf in as little as a month – enabling the retailer to react to demand and the newest trends. 

Speaking to the Daily Mail, Ms Evans said: ‘We’re pleased to see womenswear achieve its highest ever style rankings, particularly with the 35-54 customer – a clear sign our focus is landing and our ranges are resonating with more people more often.

‘It’s important that we keep up momentum so this season we’re supercharging newness across the board: from dresses and partywear through to denim, knitwear and outerwear. We’re investing in fabrics, silhouettes and trend-led pieces our customers want; while still delivering the value they trust us for.’

Trend forecaster Robbie Sinclair, who analyses cultural shifts, develops trends, and guides brands in developing best selling collections, told The Daily Mail of how M&S is filling a Topshop shaped hole on the high street.

Sinclair said, ‘There are a number of interesting factors here. Millennials are aging much slower than their predecessors and still have a strong focus on fashion-led purchases.

‘As brand loyalty from consumers has dropped off we’re seeing shoppers becoming more willing to try new brands they didn’t connect with before, whether that’s independent stores that pop up on their Instagram feed or stepping into stores like M&S to try it for the first time.

‘It’s shed its image of the place where grandma shopped and is connecting more with Millennials and even Gen Z. M&S have really stepped up with their offering and it proves that legacy brands can adapt and evolve to meet consumer needs.

‘I’ve seen lots of memes and stories of people saying ‘Is M&S cool or am I just getting older?’ and this is a great example of a positive brand turn around. The original Topshop customer is a little older now but they still have their finger very much on the pulse.

‘Consumers are being very cautious with their spending and are looking for strong wardrobe builders that last season after season. 

‘They then sprinkle in stand out pieces to elevate their wardrobe without stepping too far outside of the comfort zone. M&S is making a conscious effort and reacting to the demand for newness. 

‘Over the past few years we’ve seen a decline in excitement within high street fashion with brand personality declining, and we’re seeing a sea of sameness in collections across the board.

‘The brands who are succeeding and being noticed are the ones who are trying new things.

‘It’s great to see M&S pushing themselves into a newer direction. For consumers who grew up with Topshop this is enticing because there has been a Topshop shaped hole in the market where shoppers can buy their staples but also be introduced to newness.

‘I’m excited to see what Topshop does next following their re-launch. For a few years now, brands have been too guided from the faced-paced algorithm-based trend cycle, and finally, we’re starting to see some brands step away from the feed and focus on what sets them apart.

When Evans joined the firm, shares had plummeted 40 per cent and it had fallen out of the FTSE 100 for the first time, while Steve Rowe, the then-chief executive, admitted the brand had a reputation for ‘frumpiness’.

Evans, who lives in Hackney, London, herself told The Times: ‘It was not considered stylish, not considered modern and certainly not relevant to most women.’

She recalled how she told her team: ‘We’re not designing for your grandmother. We’re designing for all of us. Everybody in the room should want to wear this dress.’ 

Since joining the company, Evans reconfigured the brand’s style to focus more on the ‘modern mainstream’ – and while they don’t specifically ‘age’ their clothing, they saw a new opportunity among those aged between 35 and 50.

Discussing the brand’s revamp, luxury stylist Angela Kyte told The Daily Mail how Evans has led the brand to success through authentic yet accessible designs.

‘Marks & Spencer’s revival is one of the most interesting retail stories of the last few years, and I think its success with Gen Z really comes down to two things, which are authenticity and accessibility. 

‘As a stylist working with clients who span generations, I’ve noticed younger shoppers are much more intentional about where they spend, and M&S has managed to position itself as both trustworthy and trend-aware.

‘The brand has leaned into timeless wardrobe staples and we’ve seen that with their well-cut trousers, versatile knits and elevated basics, that Gen Z can mix into their wardrobes alongside thrifted or high fashion pieces. 

‘The quality feels reliable, yet the styling and collaborations now have a freshness that resonates with social media culture. When influencers are showing how a £39.50 blazer can look as sharp as designer tailoring, it creates real buzz and relatability.

‘Gen Z’s love of sustainable shopping also plays a role. M&S’s heritage of durability means clothes are built to last, which aligns with the mindset of investing in fewer, better pieces.’

The stylist added that the brand’s collaborations with individuals such as Sienna Miller, Bella Freud and Binky Felstead have also improved its visibility. 

She said, ‘M&S’s recent cool collaborations feel very deliberate, and a big part of it has been smart choices that inject personality without losing the brand’s DNA.’

‘Capsule collections from names who carry cultural weight create social media moments, and they bring editorial styling cues that are easy to replicate and amplify on feeds, while still being accessible to buy.

‘Take the recent creative edits over the past year or so. A boho-inflected party capsule from Sienna Miller, playful slogan knits from Bella Freud, and even influencer-led kidswear from Binky.

‘Each collaboration feels authentic to the partner yet rooted in M&S quality and that mix makes the clothes feel both attainable and aspirational, so you can style a £49 blazer next to a vintage find and it reads editorial, not ordinary.’

‘It’s a clever balance of being affordable but aspirational, classic but updated. That’s what makes M&S feel cool again, and why younger customers now see it as a destination, not just somewhere their parents shop.’ 

Gen Z are also thought to have been attracted by M&S’s app, which includes styling tips for different body shapes, add-ons, and ever-changing discounts. It even offers customers a free surprise on their birthday. 

Elsewhere, consumer champion Martin Newman, who has advised brands including Burberry and Harrods, told The Daily Mail how the brand has carefully planned its revival.

‘What’s happening with M&S isn’t luck, it’s a carefully managed style renaissance. For years, Marks & Spencer was pigeonholed as dependable, but slightly dated. 

‘Over the past two to three years, though, they’ve shifted gear, combining their heritage strength (quality, value, inclusive sizing) with sharper design, cultural relevance and influencer fuel.

‘The Sienna Miller collaborations are key, by bringing in someone whose style is both classic and of the moment, M&S has bridged that generational gap. Her boho-chic cred, her reputation, plus the pieces she’s designed all hit the sweet spot between nostalgia and trend.

‘Influencers have amplified this re-entry into ‘cool’ in a big way, the viral denim, wide-leg palazzo jeans, standout statement knitwear, quilted jackets, sequin party pieces from the party-edit for festive season, all of these are being picked up, showcased, styled by younger content makers.

‘On TikTok, Instagram Reels and in editorials, it’s become normal to see Gen Z users posting M&S ‘fits, comparing them favourably with fast fashion or designer dupes. That creates social relevance.’

‘The brand has re-earned ‘cool’ by balancing visible fashion credibility via celebrities, collabs and influencers but with substance (quality, fit, price). Gen Z didn’t bring M&S back alone, but they are absolutely central to its comeback.’ 

Indeed, M&S has landed itself in the centre of attention online, with the younger generations sharing content on the brand. 

TikTok user Erin, from the UK, wrote, ‘Either I’m getting old or M&S is stepping up their game because excuse me?’

She filmed herself trying on different trousers, and added in the caption, ‘Hard debating which trousers to buy right now, those jeans fit me like a glove.’ 

Elsewhere, UK content creator Bethany Smith wrote, ‘M&S really pulled something out of the bag here’, as she admired the brand’s new accessories collection.

To revamp the style of the women’s clothing, M&S top boss Evans focused in particular on the dresses section, including introducing collaborations with brands such as Ghost.

They have also overhauled the denim collection, with new styles including mom, boyfriend and wide-leg jeans, all popular with a younger audience.

Evans also explained that they had ditched more ‘outdated’ style elements, including darts around the bust area.

At the same time, she’s been wary of ‘alienating’ the brand’s traditional audience and has kept classic M&S staples including buttoned-up cardigans and jeggings.

Meanwhile, she told Drapers Online that her next mission is to make M&S the nation’s go-to option for footwear.

Her impact on the brand’s changing reputation hasn’t gone unnoticed. ‘People have been a really big part of it,’ retail expert Catherine Shuttleworth told The Guardian previously, adding that Evans has helped the brand understand what their shoppers are looking for.

In 2023, M&S became the surprise winner of the UK’s best retailer for womenswear that year, with sales of clothing alone rising by 5.5 per cent – four years after the brand fell out of the FTSE 100 for the first time.

In particular, sales of partywear were up 49 per cent, and knitwear was up 23 per cent, compared to the previous year.

Other members of the style squad that can be credited for the M&S revival include design supremo Lisa Illis; merchandising guru Helen Wilson and director of sourcing and tech, Monique Leeuwenburgh.

Evans previously told the Mail on Sunday how she brought to bear the fashion nous she picked up in a previous job at Topshop.

She said: ‘Between me, Lisa, Helen and the team, we have a pretty good sense of the aesthetic. We are trying to perfect every single detail on a dress, so it will fit and flatter most body shapes. We look at everything.’

They invested in fabrics and also simplified many of the ranges and pricing.

The team identified a number of ‘magic prices’ including £39.50 for dresses and jeans, where customers are happy to buy. 

As for sizing, Evans says that ‘from a fit perspective, we have a fantastically experienced technical team led by Monique’.

The retailer uses ‘blocks’ or templates in each size for its garments, which are then tested through the range of sizes from 6 to 24.

The time between designing an item and seeing it in store has been radically shortened so that M&S can cash in on trends. 

Evans said denim miniskirts flew out of the shops this summer because ‘we saw a trend, jumped on it and tested it really quickly’. Lisa Illis has a team of forecasters who try to spot the next big things.

Trends that have trickled down to M&S have included women’s waistcoats, crochet dresses and double denim.

Menswear too, has received a revamp worthy of the younger generation: in 2024, Callum Briggs, former head of design at Hugo Boss, joined as head of men’s design. 

M&S has also forged a successful partnership with Ghost and introduced third-party brands such as Nobody’s Child into stores.

In February, M&S saw another reshuffle, welcoming former Boohoo CEO and Primark COO John Lyttle as the new managing director of clothing, home and beauty.

The move seemingly reflects M&S’s new ‘fast fashion’ approach to design, turning around new dresses from drawing board to shelf in as little as a month.

Historically, the 139-year-old chain would take a year to sign off and produce a new design, leaving it at the mercy of sudden changes in high street tastes.

As a result, much of its fashion output was sold at a knock-down price as the store’s aisles regularly turned into something of a jumble sale.

These days, it benefits from selling much more of its stock at full price, while its much slicker process means it can quickly generate new orders to cash in on best sellers.

Now, dresses can cost as little as £17, while men’s trousers begin at £11 – prices that may one day have seemed more similar to those of its high street rivals, such as H&M or New Look.

However, M&S insists its approach to quality has not been compromised following the changes.

In a press release sent out in February, CEO Stuart Machin said: ‘The Clothing, Home & Beauty business is now on a much stronger footing with improved product.

‘Style perceptions have increased consistently and our lead on quality and value has extended, driving growth in sales and market share.’